It's finally March, which means spring is right around the corner! One of my favorite signs of spring has already made its appearance. Even on the streets of Amsterdam - but especially those inhabited by small canals - the signs of love are everything.

More specifically, duck couples can be seen together, moving through their own special process of courtship. They waddle around, or swim through the canals, quacking at each other. Occasionally a jealous brawl will break out between several excitable males over a haughty female, but in general, the process is peaceful.

In just a few more months time, it's possible to spot the ducks followed by a group of tiny ducklings, just about the time the sun is gracing us with its longest daytime presence. Happy (almost) spring!

Sadly, RyanAir does not fly into Amsterdam, but rather to Eindhoven, 90 minutes away. If you want to take advantage of their cheap flights to London, Barcelona, Madrid, Dublin, Milano, Pisa and Marseille, you have to take a roadtrip down to the south of the Netherlands first. This weekend I am going to Montpellier, via Marseille. And via Eindhoven. One can take the train to Eindhoven at a cost of 30 euros round trip, which probably amounts to almost the price of the flight. Then, however, you have to go to the airport by bus, as the train does not connect directly. An alternative, that I recently discovered and hope works out, is a bus service, connecting directly from Amsterdam Centraal (at the Canal Boat Holland International bus stop) to the Eindhoven airport. It costs 32 euros round trip, but is direct, saving you the hassle of an additional transfer. The schedule is available at the Eindhoven Airport website.

SEE
To celebrate International Women’s Day (March 8) 88 women will race along the canals of Amsterdam in bathtubs to raise money for Mama Cash, a local, non-profit organisation running an 88-day campaign.
Lijnbaansgracht between Leidseplein and Spiegelgracht
March 3, 2PM
Free, but you can sponsor a team!

DANCE
Headroom, every first Friday of the month, is a showcase for upcoming DJ talents. Tonight techno & electro.
Club 8 - Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56B
March 2, 10PM-4AM
8 Euro, free before 11PM

CONCERT
Candi Staton (soul, gospel, R&B) performing in the renovated Max Hall.
Melkweg - Lijnbaansgracht 234a
March 3, 9PM
20 Euro

I just learned something new: February 28 is the last official day of winter, according to meteorologists. They reported that the winter of 2006-2007 was the warmest ever on record, with an average temperature of 6.5 degrees Celsius (the average is usually 3.3 degrees).

As a whole, 2006 was also the warmest year on record. I wonder what this summer will hold, for all of us living in the Netherlands without air conditioning (a habit I sorely miss from Minnesota). Sure makes you think, doesn't it?

If you're thinking of travel and study this summer, the programs of the University of Amsterdam sound interesting. The Summer Institutes of the International School for Humanities and Social Sciences (ISHSS) offer the following courses:

Sexuality, Culture and Society (four weeks)
Alcohol, Drugs and Addiction ( two weeks)
Genomics & Globalisation (one week)

The IND in the Netherlands is a twisted game. Beware: I applied for my visa extension months ago. I also paid for it, without a guarantee of acceptance. Finally this week, I receive a package from them. Pleased, I thought, hey, it's here! But I was wrong. Instead, it was a new form, telling me I have 2 weeks to return the form with my signature and a new photo. There are new photo guidelines, and my old picture, accepted the first time, was now obsolete. Now, I have to go pay for the set of passport photos that I do not need, and get it back to them within 1 week. And I am off to France for the long weekend. Don't know if I'll be kicked out of the country, but just be warned yourself: guidelines are changing all the time. Sometimes they are not even explained on the forms themselves, and as usual, these forms, including the letters they send to you requesting additional information or changes, are all in Dutch. Helpful for foreigners, no? Forced assimilation!

I have not posted recently because I was in London, and try as I might, I couldn’t find any clever ways to connect the Dutch and the British. The British don’t love sugar as much as the Dutch, their drinking culture is more hardcore, they are far more interested in their national history (I had one of my professors here laughingly tell the class that the Dutch really aren’t interested in their own history), etc. Nothing terribly exciting.
I acted the same way there that I do here, in that I try very to not look like a tourist. I mean, I went to all the cool sites and spent six (6!) hours in the British Museum being unimpressed by the Elgin Marbles, but I refused to take out my map and walked everywhere as though I knew exactly where I was and where I was going. As a result, I got asked for directions seven times in five days.
So when a friend from home who will remain nameless and three of his friends from college who are studying abroad in London came to visit Amsterdam last Thursday, I expected that they’d act much the same way I did when I was in London – go see the pretty museums, walk around enjoying the city, and eat at cool local places. Instead, they immediately insisted on visiting a coffeeshop, seeing the Red Light District, and drinking absinthe. Nothing else appealed to them, and they spent their first day so high that they couldn’t see anything. We took them to SUB, a cool bar on Rokin, and they couldn’t process what was happening. Their second day was much like the first, only with the addition of absinthe and a sex show. At the end of the night, they told me that the city depressed them now.
When I told people that I would be studying abroad in Amsterdam, I was told that the city would be wasted on me because I don’t smoke at all, and I’m not interested in trying hallucinogenic foods in either solid or liquid form. But after this experience, I think Amsterdam is wasted on tourists like them. What did they see of the city? What can they remember of it? I’m not against people smoking or drinking or whatever they’d like to do, but if you visit this fine city, try to see or experience something other than the Holy Trifecta of Tourism.

While it is true the term snowboarding is not exactly synonymous with Amsterdam or the Netherlands for that matter, it is still quite important here.

Every friday lately, as I've been travelling around the country, I notice the people with their snowboarding gear; carrying the big snowboard bag on the train, tying them to their roofracks, checking them in at the airport. The Dutch may not have real mountains, but they don't let that stop them from going to every possible ski/snowboarding corner of Europe. (favorite spots being France, Austria, and Germany )

Now if you're like me, you're not exactly bringing snowboarding gear with you to the Netherlands. Come to think of it, I didn't own any before I arrived hear.

However, it would not be a bad idea if you were coming here in the winter, perhaps for a longer stay, and you'd like to join the Dutch and head over to the Alps.. you can surely purchase some good gear at reasonable prices.

Hence my two recommendations:
1- The Old Man snowboard shop. This place is for the true-blue snowboarders. Quality gear, very stylish and professional, and therefore, not always the cheapest. But hey, when you're flying down a mountain, I hope you'll choose quality gear since you're life kind of depends on it. Bonus: The Old Man also deals in smoking parafanalia/pipes and hardware.

2- Bever Sport. My personal favorite; right down on Leidseplein, on the corner with Overtoom, this is a huge outdoor sports store that I often go browsing in. Lots of selection, and sometimes some good deals, especially on snowboard clothing. Plus, while you're there, you can pick up those camping do-dads you've been wanting.

Now of course there are other places, but Ive never used them so I'm not going to talk about them. Also many will refer you to the giant bland mega-corporation Decathalon which has most sporting equipment. But they produce most of their gear in countries with questionable labor practices, so I will not recommend them.

Oh and if you can't make it out of the country, there are those INDOOR snowboarding places. But umm... I like fresh air and real snow.

The Dutch fascination with stairs intrigues me. The British share it to some degree, but there it can be explained by the fact that everything is just really old and stairs were the only system available. The European interest in saving energy explains it to some degree – my apartment, for example, doesn’t have an elevator, and that makes sense. It’s good for me and the environment, how could anyone object? But that doesn’t explain the prevalent presence of stairs completely. Take, for example, the broad gently sloping stairs that lead up to the door to my apartment building. Why are they there? Or consider the four-step stairs that commonly go up or down to doors. The Ugandan Embassy has one such staircase that leads down to their entrance. (Why I know this is another story completely). What purpose do the stairs serve? There must be an explanation, and it probably involves soil and water tables and geophysical intricacies beyond my knowledge.
My favorite unexplained staircase is in the Atrium in one of the University of Amsterdam buildings. It strikes me anew every time I see it, which is only once a week. One must go up a steep set of stairs, cross a platform, and then go down another set of stairs in order to get into food-serving area, which is on the same level as all the seating and the other food stands. I’m guessing the stair-platform system is there to block off the area when it is closed. But there are doors and gates that serve the same purpose and would involve less construction. Perhaps the Dutch create artificial slopes and heights because they don’t have much in the way of natural hills?

I've always thought of Amsterdam as a one-improv comedy club town. One being Boom Chicago. And honestly Ive never set foot in there, but still, I somehow decided that must be the only place for improv.

Enter Easy Laughs, an international improv group. Last Friday, accompanied by someone I admit I met at speeddating, I had the chance to check out their show at CREA. It was a light and seemingly informal atmosphere; before the show, during breaks, and afterwards, I noticed the players floating amongst the crowd.

I have relatively little experience with improv, cept maybe for the many episodes of Who's Line Is It Anyway that I watched back in the US, so it was exciting to watch it live. It was also horrifying.

Yes.. I mean horrifying. No not because they were not funny, they certainly had their moments, even without the long list of sex jokes which are always an easy option. But I use the word horror to describe those funny yet painful moments when a player closes his/her eyes and admits... they don't know how to answer.. or they unleash a terribly unfunny joke. Which, oddly enough, was also funny.

As usual I admire non native english speakers who tackle comedy in this our strange language. I'm the exact opposite of funny in Dutch, but many members of EasyLaughs can pull out some hilarious english lines out of thin air. Oh, and there's a piano player at times, who infrequently adds a musical touch.

But enough of this pretentious attempt to review a show... the best option, when you find yourself in Amsterdam, with very few euros in your pocket (8€) yet wishing for some laughs, head over to CREA and see Easy Laughs for yourself.

Then start a blog and do your own thrilling review.

Last week, I attended a panel discussion called "Sex and the City," which debated moral issues that face the city of Amsterdam, specifically in relation to prostitution and letting minors participate in the Gay Pride Parade. Being that the debate took place at the ISHSS (International School), the language of communication was English.

When it came time for questions from the audience a very well-dressed woman dripping in diamonds and clutching an expensive purse raised her hand. When she had the floor she began shouting in Dutch at Job Cohen, the mayor of the city of Amsterdam (also one of the panelists). She carried on for a few minutes about the terrible moral decay of the city until the moderator stopped her, noting that the discussion was in English. She said, "But I don't speak English!" He said fine, but please wrap up so he could summarize for the audience in English. She then shrieked (in Dutch) something like, "In my own country I can't even speak my own language!" I should have written down the exact quote but I was laughing in shock with the rest of the audience.

The woman left soon after, but had brought a disturbing tension to light. Is it too much to allow international organizations to hold events in English, and expect audience members to voice their opinions in this language? Doesn't speaking Dutch at an event like this - even if the event is in the Netherlands - work to exclude the international community, a community that is supposedly (officially) welcomed by the Dutch population?

Sometimes it takes an outrageous incident to give voice to an unspoken issue.

EXHIBITIONS
Empty Bottles, a photographic project by duo WassinkLundgren, shows the daily rituals of 24 empty-bottle collectors on the streets of Beijing and Shanghai and their way of creating a better future for themselves.
FOAM - Keizersgracht 609
Until April 11, 7 Euro

Robert Capa - Retrospective, a broad look at the work of the legendary war photographer and founder of modern photojournalism.
Jewish Historical Museum - Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1
Until May 20, 7.50 Euro

CONCERTS
Brakes (punk, folk)
Paradiso - Weteringschans 6-8
March 11, 930PM
10 Euro

Christian Scott - Rewind That (contemporary jazz)
Melkweg - Lijnbaansgracht 234a
March 12, 9PM
12 Euro

Kirstin Hersch - Learn to sing like a star (indie, alternative, rock)
Melkweg - Lijnbaansgracht 234a
March 14, 9PM
16 Euro

Donavon Frankenreiter - Lost Highway(rock, soul)
Paradiso - Weteringschans 6-8
March 15, 730PM
22.50 Euro

Well it worked, the bus connecting from the Holland International Canal cruise boats outside of the Centraal station, direct to Eindhoven airport. 32.50 euros roundtrip, or 18.50 each way. But my difficulties came with Ryanair itself, an airline typically relaxed when it comes to flying. New rules (maybe I am just not aware of the new regulations??) say that you may only have so many 'mini'-bottles of personal care items, and these must lay flat in a small plastic bag they provide to you. As I only went for 4 nights, I did not want to pay to check a bag and so prepared a light carry-on. Upon check-in, I was obliged to throw away all of my full-sized personal items like creams, shampoo etc., something that is very expensive! Alternatively, I could have checked my bag, but as it doubled for a purse, there was no way it would have survived the luggage compartment and my other items would have been crushed (I bring presents.. you know, stroopwafels). Finally I asked a young French guy to pack most of my things in his check luggage. On the return flight, I expected (and hoped) that the regulations were one-sided, as there were no customs check at all in the French airport. Nope- although I managed to get 2 other 'interdit' presents, foie gras and mints, into a Dutch couple's check luggage, the rest of my toiletries had to be discarded. RyanAir adds up. New toiletries, 12 euro to check a bag, 6 euro to do advance check in... Furthermore, the security checks were incomplete, as something could have been easily hidden within my deodorant. That wasn't checked at all, like most items. So much for discount flying. I know high prices result in less flying, something better for climate change and our atmosphere, but these charges are nevertheless very annoying for what is expected, and for the start & end of what should be a holiday!

Not so long ago, I needed cash. So I headed to the Postbank cash machine on the Spui, and inserted my bank card. The machine groaned and grumbled, and then froze. It went black and then this screen (below) popped up. I waited a terrifying three minutes until it spit my card back out. Without the cash. I was relieved, but the twenty or so people waiting behind me were not.

All's well that ends well, I guess. It reminded me that these machines can sometimes be reliable, and that it's always better to have cash at hand before you're really desperate for it.

Amsterdam has plenty of unique corners you may have never heard of. Often its the most amazing of places you may never have noticed before. That's what it was like during my visit to the Lloyd Hotel. Here.. watch it for yourself.

ps- Add your own NL themed videos on our youtube group.

Du Lac, at Haarlemmerstraat 118, offers a very decent deal for students- a 50% reduction on food plus a free coffee (sometimes) with your meal. They have nice food, mostly Mediterranean-inspired including some vegetarian choices, and are open for both lunch (noon - 5PM) and dinner (until 1030PM). The style of the restaurant is art deco, and is pretty and pleasant. It also reminds me of a pub. Du Lac was once home to the weekly ISN borrels, and has a large basement with several rooms and a bar, usual open on the weekends. I've been to some special theme parties here and they were all right, kinda grimy downstairs though. The cheap food (with the real restaurant atmosphere- something missed by poor students) makes it worthwhile to come by, and the architecture is interesting enough too. Just make sure you do not forget your (Dutch) university identification. Afterwards, you can check out the bars in the Jordaan, where there is a wide selection of cool, small and very 'local' spots.

The café, not the city. Although the city is well worth a visit too.

The average visitor to Amsterdam may never see Caffé Oslo. Its what we like to call, off the beaten path. But if you make it out of Vondelpark and cross the canal, you'll stumble into Oslo and discover one of the most popular cafés around.

Rumor has it that it's a major singles kind of place. Which, following a less-than-exciting speeddating experience, I may need to test for myself.

Regardless of why you go there, anyone who's anyone is hanging out on the stylish terrace at Oslo in the spring. And spring has most definitely arrived in the Netherlands.

Myself, I'm not really anyone, so I tend to just ride by, say hello to the waitress, and snap photos. But you should go in for some drinks, let me know if you see famous people.






(if you dont feel like walking through Vondelpark, take tram 1 from Central Station and get out at Surinameplein. Or ride your bike, like I do, to the end of the Overtoom)

Once per week, I have the privilege of experiencing the morning commute. That means taking an 8:00 a.m. jam-packed (but silent) train, dodging lots of frazzled people running for trams, and getting to watch the lack of progress on the construction that has taken over the Centraal Station. But the best part? Watching the battle of the free dailies.

Free daily newspapers seem to be the latest trend in commuter culture. There's now three that haunt all major Dutch train stations: Metro, De Pers (Gratis, maar niet goedkoop!), and Spits. Sometimes they can be found neatly stacked in a labeled bin, but more often they litter the ground, the train, and the stairs when people have tired of them after scanning the headlines for five minutes.

But the most interesting way they are handed out is by individuals. These warriors stand, strategically blocking every entrance and every passageway, waving the papers in my face as I try to dodge them. They have the tendency to form strategic lines: If I miss the Metro guy, then the Spits girl is right beyond him, ready to pounce.

I'm proud to say I have not given in to their pressure. I use my train time to work or to practice Spanish, and have sworn not contribute to the mess of newspaper that clogs the morning commute.

Today I tracked down the place I'd been dreaming about since the first time I visited it- the location indeed of the best chocolate tart in the universe. I had lost track of it, being situated on a small street, but today I found it once more and feel absolutely obliged to share it with you. This is no ordinary chocolate tart. It tastes like a hundred bars of dark, rich 70% pure cacao reduced to a palm-sized triangular shaped slice of heaven. No, I am really not exaggerating. Furthermore, its more than a great deal at 1.50 euro a piece. Do yourself a favor and go get one. The shop is called Traiterie Chef! and is at Raamsteeg 5, between the Spuistraat and the Singel. Order a piece of The Real Chocolate Tart- it doesn't look particularly impressive, but wait till you taste it.

Today kicks off my favorite film festival of all - the yearly event sponsored by Amnesty International. The 2007 program looks fascinating and takes place in various locations in Amsterdam, although it is primarily held at De Balie. They even have showings in Den Haag, at the Filmhuis.

Tickets are €7.50 per film (only €6 apiece with your student card) and you can reserve in advance - in fact, it's recommended as many sell out early on. Or you can do what I do - purchase a Passe-partout € 25.00 and see as many films as you want.

The program is available online; just scroll down to see English film descriptions.

It's not to be missed, but it will all be over by Sunday. Be sure to check it out!

This week, Amsterdam weekly is celebrating their 3rd anniversary with 3 special parties. I will be going to the Zebra Lounge to see Lucy Lee on Thursday. (I've never been to Zebra Lounge before!) This is great because I won the tickets free from the Weekly specials page. Each night has a drink or admission deal, and will hopefully be goooood!
1. Thursday 15 March - Zebra Lounge
Lucy Lee, with 2-for-1 drinks from 10-11PM
2. Saturday 17 March - Bitterzoet
Blue Note Trip with DJ Maestro and friends. Free admission until midnight.
3. Tuesday 20 March - ARC
2-for-1 drinks from 8-10PM
Maybe see you there.

CONCERTS
DJ Morgan Geist at the Wildvreemd party.
Sugar Factory - Lijnbaansgracht 238
March 15, 11PM - 5AM
12 Euro (9 Euro pre sale)

Just-Ice & T la Rock (hip hop)
Melkweg - Lijnbaansgracht 234a
March 17, 930PM
17 Euro

FILM
Ninth edition of the Amnesty International Film Festival with both documentaries and feature films. Check the website for the full program.
Tickets available at: Uitkijk, De Balie, KIT Tropentheater
March 14 - 18
7,50 Euro

The Unheard Film Festival demonstrates the importance of the soundtrack and shows unexpected film/music combinations. Workshops, jam sessions and an end party are also part of the program.
Filmtheater Kriterion/Desmet Studios
Roetersstraat 170/Plantage Middenlaan 4A
March 20-24, from 5 Euro

Amsterdam on a Budget: Markets and Museums galore!
Drinking and marijuana have never really interested me, so on the plane over to Amsterdam I wondered what else I might want to see and do. I browsed through my guidebook looking to see what the city offers and here I discovered the world’s largest flower auction. Fourteen million flowers are auctioned five days a week in the largest warehouse in Europe. Unfortunately the auction was a little out of reach for this trip so I began looking for similar places to visit within the heart of Amsterdam.

I decided to check out as many markets as I could. The largest and most colorful market can be found in the Albert Cuypmarkt. Wigs, formal dress wear, fish, fruit and many other items can be found in this open-air market at reasonable prices. It is difficult to resist the good deals targeted towards locals. A short bus ride from Central Station or a rented bike will take you right there. It is open nine to five, Monday through Saturday.

While Albert Cuypmarkt had a huge variety of goods and low prices, I prefer smaller specialty markets, and Amsterdam has lots of them. The city contains 22 markets, including Bloemenmarkt, the World’s only floating flower market. When I heard this I pictured flowers and plants sold from boats. At one point boats did travel down the ancient, narrow canals to deliver fresh flowers to residents. Now stands sit permanently on the water containing orchids, tulip bulbs, marijuana starter kits and even Christmas trees around the holidays. The flowers found here are probably the most varied and freshest of any market in the world, since it is only 50 minutes from the largest flower auction. Read the whole story

Life is full of contradictions, or so it seems at my young age. And Amsterdam is no different. Extremely luxurious boats float by little ragged rowboats, fancy apartments next to squats, the list goes on and on. And sometimes even these contrasts can make the city beautiful.

One little restaurant that I've known for years, and that embodies the contrasts of Amsterdam goes by the name of Koffiehuis van den Volksbond. While I don't speak perfect Dutch, I can tell you that a name like that says quite clearly only in slightly different words "Working class café". I think it once served some truely proletarian customers.






However today's Worker's Koffiehuis caters to a slightly different crowd than Marx and Engels. The menu, while delicious and creative, has some reasonably high prices depending on your choice of main course. This combined with the clientel, in my humble opinion, have created a loved restaurant for the fairly well off, in place of what I suppose used to be the people's canteen.

But nevermind the socio-economic implications. I've only tried their vegeterian options, which were delicious although the portions were too small. But the caliber of cooking is such that if you do go, your stomach will be pleased.

Located just next to the Maritime Museum on the Kadijk's Plein. Walk from Central Station or take a bus to the Museum.

Just in case you missed it: according to the NL 20, the top 10 restaurants in Amsterdam right now are (in order from 1 to 10):

Mediterranean: Aan de Amstel @ Weesperzijde 42
Moroccan: Bakkerij Mediterrane @ Haarlemmerdijk 184
Dutch: Oliver’s Salads & Bar @ Claude Debussylaan 78
South-American: GEWOON eten en meer @ Beukenplein 18
Fusion: Con-fusion @ Postjesweg 7
Mediterranean: De Balie @ Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 10
Dutch: Restaurant Greetje @ Peperstraat 23
Italian: Bloemgracht @ Bloemgracht 47
Fusion: Vlinder @ Brouwersgracht 139
French: Brasserie Suisse @ Overtoom 5-7

This is great to know if you have family and friends coming in town who don't want one of your special student-budget homecooked meals (pasta with tomato sauce). Also, the prices of these places range from low (for friends) to high (thanks mom and dad!), as some are bakeries and some are more formal restaurants.
Eet smakelijk!

I snapped this photo in Den Haag a few weeks ago. By now, I'm sure the tulips are in full bloom, their bright colors delighting everyone that walks past them.

Spring is truly the best time of the year in the Netherlands. The days get longer and people seem to grow energetic with each added minute of sunlight. Days get warmer and scarves and hats are discarded, but the heat is only pleasant, and not yet sweat-inducing.

Activities like trips to the beach, lounging in the Vondelpark, or hanging out on the balcony with friends again become enticing. Enjoy, Amsterdam dwellers! Months of more sun and fewer rainy days (I hope) await you.

I do that thing alot where you go over someone's house for dinner, and then you go out for desert. Its a cozy way to handle an evening, and more affordable then eating a whole meal at fancy restaurants.

Lately, my favorite Austrian girl and I find ourselves venturing out into the Jordaan night in search of deserts. Now the Jordaan is Amsterdam's most famous neighborhood and therefore, with some really classy spots that make you wonder if you can afford them and if they're even worth it?

Well she and I have both become fans of Casa Perú. Despite being right on the Prinsengracht in a beautifully kept old corner building, and carrying itself with an air of poshness, the place is actually great to stop in for a quiet drink. Better yet, what we like to do is stop in for a Perúvian desert. My favorite is perhaps not the most exotic.. their chocolate cake. But equally as memorable is their flan.

So keep Casa Perú in mind for drinks and desert when you want something that feels fancy but wont completely bankrupt you. And if actually do have the money, then you might want to go in for a full course meal which smells quite good... as far as my nose can tell.

(located right at the intersection of the prinsengracht and leidsegracht.. walking distance from Leidseplein)

There are plenty of pizza places in Amsterdam, and Turkish pizza is something special. Different to Italian style, Turkish pizza does not have cheese, and in uniform is a touch of tomato sauce and a bit of beef on thin pita style dough. After heating, salad, garlic and hot sauce may be added. It is a simple and delicious snack, and thanks to the NL20, plus a Greek friend who reads Dutch well, I tracked down a great 2 euro Turkish pizza last week. Located at Rozengracht 148 (near Nassaukade), the Mercan Pastanesi also offers a wonderful variety of Baklavas with pistachio, almond, walnut and more. A warning- there is a special price for the pizza plus a drink- Turkish yogurt, at 2.80 euros. Maybe you are already familiar with this yogurt drink, but I was not and consequently was unable to consume it. This is plain yogurt with enough salt added to make you more dehydrated(!), and I do not like it. Otherwise, you can take soda to wash down your lunch:)

Today the Keukenhof opens. They call it "The most beautiful spring garden in the world," and they might be right. It's full of tulips, neatly manicured lawns, tulips, trees, and more tulips. It's a must-see if you live in or are even visiting the Netherlands.

I am ashamed to say I have never walked within the park, although I did once make it to the entrance but had to turn around due to a rental bike return deadline. This year, I'm definitely visiting, and afterwards will fill the inboxes of my friends and family with pictures of...tulips.

The Keukenhof is open in 2007 from 22 March to 20 May. Information on getting there by car, public transport or by bicycle is on their website. The entrance fee is EUR 13, and you can buy your tickets online to avoid the queues. Don't miss it!

Like many countries in the world, the Netherlands has one of those companies that tries to go around buying up all the big theaters. There are probably 2 or 3 of these companies normally.. but the one that most people who visit may notice is Pathé. Pathé tends to buy a big theater and throw its name before the title.. like Pathé Tuschinski; which is a fine theater with a classic look. Then they toss in their mass market films, their advertising, and then i think the indivudual theater has some power to try and do different things within those parameters.

Fortunately two theaters in Amsterdam have remained staunchly independent and show films you won't find most places that challenge audiences to think and be informed about the world around them. They are Kriterion, located in the Plantage area of town, and The Movies, located near Westerpark. Both are highly recommended by this trippist, especially The Movies... that place is like stepping back in time when it comes to old-style theaters.

As for Calypso.. I guess its being renovated. Don't be surprised if it goes Pathé.

You have until March 31 to check out "De Dood" (The Dead), an intriguing-sounding exhibition at the Rijksmuseum. They say you will learn more about the art of death and various portrayals of the afterlife.

If you're a fan of digital audio, you can even download the audio section of the tour (in Dutch) online before you head to the museum. How's that for being high tech and wildly cultured, all at the same time?

The Rijksmuseum is open every day from 9AM to 6PM. The exhibition is held on Friday evenings (between 6PM and 10PM), and includes readings, films, concerts and poems. Entrance is €10 but free with a Museum Card.

Don't know about you, but I wouldn't want to miss an opportunity to see the Red Light District up close and personal! You can actually take a peek behind the red curtains and visit a prostitute's bedroom or watch a peep show...LIVE. Interesting, wouldn't you say?
For a list of participating venues purchase a program (1 Euro) at the information center at the Oudekerksplein or at the Wallenwinkel. At 5PM a special monument will be unveiled at the Oudekerksplein. Ah yes, the open house will be held this Saturday, March 31, from 12noon-6PM.

For more information visit the Prostitution Information Centre.

Photo: Lisa Trainor

Bonjour, dear readers! After an unfortunately stressful week in Paris (the weather back in Boston is partially responsible for this), I have happily returned to Amsterdam and fell even more in love with the city. There’s nothing like being in another, less pleasant place to make you realize how much you appreciate your home. One of the things in Paris that bothered me was the number of beggars and aggressive street-salesmen. I realized while fending off yet another touchy man trying to sell me bits of colored string that I don’t have to deal with this sort of thing in Amsterdam. The Dutch take care of their own, apparently. I encountered beggars in all the major spots in Paris, as well as some lesser-known areas that my fluent friend from Wellesley took me. They ranged from the typical person sitting on the street with a cup in front to them to clean well-dressed girls who approached me and asked me if I spoke English. When I said I did, thinking they were other tourists needing directions to another landmark, they would present a small sign requesting money. And Amsterdam doesn’t have salesman who grab your arm, apparently convinced that physical contact will make you purchase their mini Eiffel Tour statuettes. What would be the equivalent of the Eiffel Tour in Amsterdam, anyway? There’s no such landmark. There are famous monuments, sure, but nothing like the Eiffel Tour or the Statue of Liberty. Perhaps that is the secret to Amsterdam’s success in avoiding such personalities.
I have to say, I never feel unsafe in Amsterdam. Paris made me nervous somehow, despite the charming little streets, but I prance around Amsterdam fearlessly. That doesn’t mean I don’t employ the usual tricks to keep myself safe—be aware, keep a good grip on your bag, walk like you own the place, etc, all things you should do wherever you are—but there’s a level of comfort that Amsterdam exudes that I haven’t found in many other cities. Even Boston, another close little city, often seems sketchier. There aren’t many other places where I’d walk around wearing my iPod. Although I’m not such a fan of wearing an mp3 players when walking in general, because sound is a major component of a city and not something to be missed. One exception to this will be the walking tour I’ll be reviewing later this week in the gorgeous spring weather we’re experiencing, as soon as this pesky hip problem resolves itself. Stay tuned!

Recently, my program requested that we all sit down and listen to a lecture by Jacob Vossestein, a Dutch cultural anthropologist who works as a cross-cultural trainer. I didn’t know that job existed, and now I covet it. But that’s another story. I was excited about this lecture, as he would be talking about the Dutch culture. I’m a sociology major who wishes she were an anthropology major but couldn’t face the prospect of a second semi-useless major. So I looked forward with a fair amount of excitement to his talk. I was not disappointed- he was funny, knowledgeable and eager to let our questions dictate the flow of his lecture. He discussed the Dutch history in Africa, the issue of racism in modern Dutch culture, traditional Dutch customs (Zwarte Piet and Sinterklaas in particular – did you know that the tradition stems from the 1300s? That’s before the Dutch colonized any part of Africa) and a bit about Dutch humor. He explained the European attitude toward America (a topic I always find fascinating, since the American views of their own country are often at odds with international perceptions of the good ole US of A), and said, I quote approximately, “The Europeans consider America our child run wild. Quite wild these days! When we Europeans say bad things about America, it’s not because we hate it but because we love it so much and want it to be better!”
I felt that his lecture was quite informative, especially that last bit about how Dutch criticisms aren’t mean-spirited, but flowing from a place of love rather than distaste. Jacob Vossestein has written a book called Dealing with the Dutch. I haven’t read it yet, but if you’re planning on visiting the Netherlands or just want a Dutch anthropologist’s insight into his own culture, you might want to check it out.
Also, I went up to him afterward to tell him how much I’d enjoyed his talk and when I mentioned that I was a sociology major, he told me I looked like one. I peer into my mirror daily to try to spot the tattletale sociology-major signs now.

Children learn to ride bikes from an astonishing young age here in the Netherlands, but they also learn something else: Always lock your bike! Here's a prime example. Even the wee-est of the bicycles must be locked up to prevent theft. Better to teach them while they're young, I suppose.

Imagine if you came to Amsterdam on a family vacation with kids and decided to go to the science museum, the NEMO. You would be in for many surprises. Situated in an achitecturally intriguing building and located right on the water, the NEMO is a sight that is not often missed by the passerby.

The NEMO houses a great variety of exhibitions and experiments and attractions change regularly, therefore one can check the website to see what is currently on.
I went to the NEMO recently with a friend for a fun day of something altogether different. At first sight it appears to be a children's-only funhouse, but there is a lot for adults to learn as well. One of my favorite activities, put on by a member of staff, was a 'chain-reactions' display, incorporating fire, weights, balloons, wind-powered model boats, and much much more. But the one that inspired me the most was on the top floor, a sex-ed exhibition targeting teens. This setup included wooden figurines posed in various Kama Sutra positions, videos of animals in the wild 'getting it on', and loads of tips and facts about sex and sexual interactions among humans. There were three peep-show like booths requiring age tokens, and inside the first, one learned about signs of being gay or not. The real criteria? A consistent preference and attraction to members of the same sex, not just curiosities, occasional desires, or even experimentation with someone of the same sex. The second booth housed information on sex; for example, that there is nothing wrong with women who do not achieve orgasm during intercourse and why penis size is not all that counts. The final booth showed short video clips of real people, from the head up, having orgasms, amusingly titled "the Small Death". It also explained the many health benefits of this activity.

I cannot begin to picture this kind of fun, interesting, informative and very important exhibition being shown in a teen science museum in any other place in the world. I must say that I was very impressed by the quality and tastefulness of the exhibition as well as the way in which sex was de-mystified without losing its appeal, & all the while making anyone interested feel at ease.

The NEMO can be found at Oosterdok 2, just off Prins Hendrikkade and about 10 minutes walk from the Centraal station heading east. It is open from 10AM to 5PM daily and, as many other museums, is closed on Mondays.

An explanation to begin: I'm not talking about THAT HASH... I'm talking about the Hash House Harriers, Amsterdam's AH3.. the slowest HASH in Europe.

Hashing has nothing to do with drugs and everything to do with drunken running around the city and generally wasting space on earth. Their official title is "The drinking club with a running problem"

You see hashers are in virtually every major city in the world, and it is a tradition that began with some British colonists back in 1938. Someone sets a course, the hashers meet up at a specific point in the city, you go over the rules, sing some songs, and the run begins. Occasionally you get lost and made fun of. Often you must pause for a BEER STOP, also known as BS, which makes the remainder of the run much more interesting.

I myself have gone to the hash in Lisbon, Portugal and here in Amsterdam. I haven't ran with them in some time, but you can bet they're still out there, once a week, wearing funny shorts and talking with their funny accents whilst downing many beers.

If you really want to meet the expat community, or if you're interested in the reverse evolution of humans, by all means go on their website and find out where and when the next hash is, put on some good footwear and be prepared for a rare show. Maybe bring a few euros too as Hash cash is essential. Don't tell them bicyclemark sent you as I doubt they remember me or the names of their own children.

In Den Haag there are many things to see and do during an afternoon escape from Amsterdam, including the Mauritshuis housing many Dutch masterpieces, the Koninklijke Schouwburg (Royal Theatre), and Madurodam presenting miniature representations of Holland (and currently exhibiting an impressive ice sculpture display).

Apart from these intriguing art and cultural possibilities, the M.C. Escher Museum offers something more, the chance to experience the imaginative 3-dimensional world of the famous Dutch artist Escher.
Located in the beautiful Lange Voorhout Palace, the museum is devoted solely to this artist and includes prints and drawings as well as presenting family photographs, drawings and sketches.

On the top floor of the museum, the final stop, visitors sit down and put on large helmets that cover the eyes. Once activated, the wearer then may turn his or her head to the left or right and explore different places inside the wild world of Escher. You will travel through some of his most famous works, wander up and down the famous infinitely looped staircase, fly with his birds and swim with
his fish. But be warned, my old neighbor went there recently, and as an exchange student, something that allows for the high probability of a weekend hangover, the experience was so overwhelming that he unfortunately vomited right then and there! I, on the other hand, truly enjoyed the experience and the museum as a whole and highly recommend it to anyone visiting Den Haag. My mother and her friend were also visiting at the time and agreed that indeed it was one of the best museums on their trip.

BIRTHDAY PARTIES
Sugar Factory
DJs and VJs in a special night of theatre, cabaret and live music.
Sugar Factory - Lijnbaansgracht 238
March 30, 11PM - 5AM
Free til 12AM, after 12 Euro

Pacific Parc
Three days of free partying at this Westerpark venue with cowboy punk band The Sixtyniners on Saturday and Amsterdam roots-reggae collective Karmakonga on Sunday.
Pacific Parc - Polonceaukade 23
March 30, 31 and April 1
Free

SEE
Open house Red Light District.
For a list of participating venues purchase a program (1 Euro) at the information center at the Oudekerksplein or at the Wallenwinkel.
March 31, 12noon-6PM

EXHIBITIONS
James Nachtwey - Testimony
One of the most influential and most-published contemporary photographers documenting wars, disasters and their consequences, twice winner of the World Press Photo of the Year.
FOAM - Keizersgracht 609
March 30 until June 20
7.50 Euro

Eva Besnyö: Unknown Photos
Robert Capa and Eva Besnyö, two major innovators of photography and both originally Hungarian Jews, were good friends and are now for the first time presented in a joint exhibition. Besnyö’s works include series of portraits of women taken in the 1930s and photos of post-war reconstruction in the Netherlands.
Jewish Historical Museum - Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1
Until May 20
7.50 Euro